Bring the stock to a low simmer in a saucepan. Keep it warm beside the risotto pan throughout.

Heat the butter and olive oil in a wide heavy pan over medium heat. Add the shallot and cook 5 minutes until translucent and soft.

Add the rice and toast for 2 minutes, stirring, until the edges turn pearly.

Pour in the wine and stir until completely evaporated.

Add hot stock one ladle at a time, stirring gently. Wait until each ladle is absorbed before adding the next. Continue for 18 minutes until the rice is al dente and the texture pours like lava.

While the rice cooks, melt 30g butter in a separate frying pan and brown the sliced mushrooms hard for 6 minutes. Set aside.

When the rice is ready, fold in the mushrooms, parmesan and cold butter off the heat. Beat hard with a wooden spoon for 30 seconds (mantecatura).

Finish with parsley, lemon zest, salt, pepper. Serve immediately.

At the mantecatura step, fold in the truffle paste or finely shaved fresh truffle alongside the parmesan and butter.

Plate immediately. Shave more truffle on top. Do not photograph it. The smell is the show, not the picture.

Soak the dried porcini in 250ml hot water for 20 minutes. Strain the liquid into the simmering stock. Chop the rehydrated porcini.

Brown the porcini and chestnut mushrooms in butter. Add the porcini to the rice with the shallot in the base step; stir the chestnut mushrooms in halfway through the cooking.

Finish with fresh thyme alongside the parmesan and butter at mantecatura. Serve with extra thyme on top.