Cover dried porcini with 200 ml boiling water. Leave 15 minutes. Chop roughly. Strain soak water through paper towel into the hot stock.

Keep stock barely simmering on a back burner throughout.

In a wide pan, heat 1 tbsp olive oil and 25 g butter over high heat. Add fresh mushrooms in a single layer. Sear 2 minutes, toss, cook 4 to 5 minutes until deep brown. Season with salt, pepper, half the thyme. Remove.

In a heavy saucepan, soften the onion in remaining olive oil over medium heat for 5 minutes. Add garlic, stir 1 minute.

Add rice. Stir 2 minutes until glossy and toasted.

Pour in wine. Stir until absorbed, 2 minutes.

Stir in chopped porcini.

Add hot stock one ladle at a time, stirring regularly. 18 to 22 minutes total until rice is tender with a fine white pinprick at the centre.

Stir fresh mushrooms through in the last 2 minutes.

Off the heat, beat in the remaining 25 g cold butter and all the parmesan. Squeeze of lemon.

Loosen with a splash of hot stock if needed — it should ripple when you tap the pan.

Serve immediately in warm bowls with reserved mushrooms on top, remaining thyme, extra parmesan.