Slow Cooker Beef Ragu (Pappardelle Sauce)

The proper Italian-American Sunday gravy.

Why you should cook this

Sunday gravy, the proper Italian-American version. A kilo and a half of beef chuck in five-centimetre pieces, browned hard in olive oil before anything else happens. Soffritto of finely diced onion, carrot, celery sweated low. Five cloves of garlic. Two tins of San Marzano tomatoes, a glass of red wine, fresh rosemary and thyme, a bay leaf, salt, pepper. Eight hours on low in the slow cooker. The result is shredded beef in a sauce so dark and dense the wooden spoon stands up in it.

Chuck steak, never mince. Mince crumbles. Chuck pulls. The whole point of a proper ragu is the silky shredded meat. Shred it with two forks in the sauce when it is done. Then transfer to a wide pan and simmer uncovered for fifteen to twenty minutes to reduce. Toss through fresh pappardelle (Pasta Emilia in Sydney, Cibo in Melbourne, or a decent supermarket fresh sheet pasta). A handful of pasta water. Parmigiano Reggiano grated over from a deli wedge, never the green tube. Open a Chianti Classico.

What to drink with it

A Sangiovese-based red (Chianti, Brunello), a Negroni Sbagliato, or a Boulevardier.

Notes from the kitchen

Chuck steak, not mince. The whole point of ragu is shredded slow-cooked beef, not browned mince. Two-stage cook for best flavour. Eight hours low for the meat, then 30 mins on stovetop to reduce.

The recipe

Slow Cooker Beef Ragu (Pappardelle Sauce)

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Prep Time 20 minutes
Cook Time 8 hours 30 minutes
Total Time 9 hours
Servings: 6 serves
Course: Main Course
Cuisine: Italian

Ingredients
  

  • 1.5 kg chuck steak, in 5cm pieces
  • 3 tbsp olive oil
  • 1 brown onion, diced
  • 1 carrot, diced
  • 2 stalks celery, diced
  • 5 cloves garlic, minced
  • 300 mL red wine
  • 2 x 400g tins diced tomatoes
  • 2 tbsp tomato paste
  • 2 sprigs fresh rosemary
  • 2 sprigs fresh thyme
  • 500 g fresh pappardelle
  • 100 g parmesan, grated

Method
 

  1. Brown beef in oil over high heat in batches. Tip into slow cooker.
  2. Cook onion, carrot, celery in same pan 10 min. Add garlic 1 min. Tip in. Add wine to pan, boil 2 min. Pour in.
  3. Add tomatoes, tomato paste, rosemary, thyme, salt, pepper to cooker. Stir.
  4. Cover. Cook low 8 hours (or high 5 hours).
  5. Discard herb stems. Shred beef with two forks in the sauce. Tip into a wide pan, simmer uncovered 20 minutes to thicken.
  6. Boil pappardelle. Drain reserving 1 cup of pasta water. Toss pasta with sauce, adding pasta water to loosen.
  7. Top with parmesan. Serve immediately.
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Two things that go wrong

Watery ragu

Skipped the reduction step. After the cook, simmer uncovered for 20 minutes to thicken to the right cling-to-pasta consistency.

Mince texture, not pulled-beef

You used mince instead of chuck. Chuck pulls; mince crumbles. Chuck is the rule.

Variations worth knowing

Pork ragu

Replace half the chuck with pork shoulder. Adds richness and lets you serve over rigatoni.

Wild boar

Replace beef with wild boar shoulder. Earthier, gamier.

Duck ragu

Replace beef with 6 duck legs (skin on). Strip the meat after the cook. Serve over pappardelle.

Leftovers and make ahead

Better the second and third days. Three days fridge, three months frozen. Reheat over pasta with reserved pasta water.