The proper Italian-American Sunday gravy.
Why you should cook this
Sunday gravy, the proper Italian-American version. A kilo and a half of beef chuck in five-centimetre pieces, browned hard in olive oil before anything else happens. Soffritto of finely diced onion, carrot, celery sweated low. Five cloves of garlic. Two tins of San Marzano tomatoes, a glass of red wine, fresh rosemary and thyme, a bay leaf, salt, pepper. Eight hours on low in the slow cooker. The result is shredded beef in a sauce so dark and dense the wooden spoon stands up in it.
Chuck steak, never mince. Mince crumbles. Chuck pulls. The whole point of a proper ragu is the silky shredded meat. Shred it with two forks in the sauce when it is done. Then transfer to a wide pan and simmer uncovered for fifteen to twenty minutes to reduce. Toss through fresh pappardelle (Pasta Emilia in Sydney, Cibo in Melbourne, or a decent supermarket fresh sheet pasta). A handful of pasta water. Parmigiano Reggiano grated over from a deli wedge, never the green tube. Open a Chianti Classico.
What to drink with it
A Sangiovese-based red (Chianti, Brunello), a Negroni Sbagliato, or a Boulevardier.
Notes from the kitchen
Chuck steak, not mince. The whole point of ragu is shredded slow-cooked beef, not browned mince. Two-stage cook for best flavour. Eight hours low for the meat, then 30 mins on stovetop to reduce.
The recipe

Ingredients
Method
- Brown beef in oil over high heat in batches. Tip into slow cooker.
- Cook onion, carrot, celery in same pan 10 min. Add garlic 1 min. Tip in. Add wine to pan, boil 2 min. Pour in.
- Add tomatoes, tomato paste, rosemary, thyme, salt, pepper to cooker. Stir.
- Cover. Cook low 8 hours (or high 5 hours).
- Discard herb stems. Shred beef with two forks in the sauce. Tip into a wide pan, simmer uncovered 20 minutes to thicken.
- Boil pappardelle. Drain reserving 1 cup of pasta water. Toss pasta with sauce, adding pasta water to loosen.
- Top with parmesan. Serve immediately.
You might also like
What to pour with it
Cocktail
Negroni Sbagliato
A bartender in Milan in 1972 grabbed the wrong bottle and poured prosecco instead of gin into a Negroni. Why you are pouring this tonight A bartender in…
Read the recipe →
Cocktail
The Boulevardier
The Boulevardier is a Negroni that swapped its gin jacket for a wool one and went hunting. Same Campari, same sweet vermouth, but with bourbon or rye instead…
Read the recipe →Two things that go wrong
Watery ragu
Skipped the reduction step. After the cook, simmer uncovered for 20 minutes to thicken to the right cling-to-pasta consistency.
Mince texture, not pulled-beef
You used mince instead of chuck. Chuck pulls; mince crumbles. Chuck is the rule.
Variations worth knowing
Pork ragu
Replace half the chuck with pork shoulder. Adds richness and lets you serve over rigatoni.
Wild boar
Replace beef with wild boar shoulder. Earthier, gamier.
Duck ragu
Replace beef with 6 duck legs (skin on). Strip the meat after the cook. Serve over pappardelle.
Leftovers and make ahead
Better the second and third days. Three days fridge, three months frozen. Reheat over pasta with reserved pasta water.

