The vegetarian weeknight dinner that doesn’t apologise.
Why you should cook this
The vegetarian dinner that doesn’t apologise. Two tins of chickpeas (drained and dried on a tea towel, this is non-negotiable), a head of cauliflower in florets, four carrots in chunks, one red onion in wedges, three tablespoons of harissa paste (Tunisian rose harissa from a Middle Eastern grocer if you can find it, the supermarket Carolyn’s Harissa if you cannot), olive oil, cumin, salt. Twenty-five minutes at 220 fan. Yoghurt on the side. Coriander and lemon over the top.
Drying the chickpeas is the entire game. Wet chickpeas steam, dry chickpeas crisp, and a crispy chickpea is the difference between a real dinner and the kind of plate-of-things vegetarians have been served for forty years. Don’t crowd the tray. If you have eaters more than four, use two trays. The vegetables go in for ten minutes alone, then the chickpeas join for the last fifteen. Bigger cauliflower florets than you think; small ones burn before the carrots are tender. Yoghurt on the side cools the harissa heat. Lemon at the table.
What to drink with it
A glass of Australian shiraz, a Tequila Negroni (our recipe), or a chilled rose.
Notes from the kitchen
Drain chickpeas well, dry them on a tea towel. Wet chickpeas steam, dry chickpeas crisp.
The recipe

Ingredients
Method
- Preheat oven to 220°C fan.
- Combine harissa, oil, cumin, salt in a large bowl. Add cauliflower, carrots, onion. Toss.
- Add chickpeas. Toss again.
- Spread on a large sheet pan. Roast 25 minutes, tossing once at 15 min, until vegetables are tender and chickpeas are crispy.
- Serve with a dollop of yoghurt, fresh coriander, a squeeze of lemon.
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What to pour with it
Cocktail
Tequila Negroni
Confusingly identical to the Rosita without the dry vermouth. Why you are pouring this tonight Confusingly identical to the Rosita without the dry vermouth. A pure equal-parts tequila-Campari-sweet-vermouth…
Read the recipe →
Cocktail
Rosita
Why you are pouring this tonight The tequila Negroni. Reposado tequila in place of gin. Earthier, smokier, just as bitter. What to pour it alongside Aged hard cheese,…
Read the recipe →Two things that go wrong
Soft chickpeas
Wet from the tin. Drain, dry on a tea towel for ten minutes before tossing.
Burnt cauliflower
Florets too small. Larger florets stand up to high heat better than small ones.
Variations worth knowing
Curry-spiced
Replace harissa with 2 tablespoons of curry powder. Add 1 teaspoon of turmeric and 50mL of coconut cream drizzled at the end.
Mediterranean herb
Skip the harissa. Use 2 tablespoons of dried oregano, 1 tablespoon of fennel seeds, lemon zest. Greek-island energy.
Maple-spiced
Add 2 tablespoons of maple syrup and 1 tablespoon of smoked paprika. Slightly sweeter, smokier.
Leftovers and make ahead
Three days fridge. Crispy chickpeas go soft in the fridge but crisp again under the grill for 90 seconds. Serve over rice, in wraps, or on top of soup.

